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| Kusinata is a restaurant that offers a one-of-a-kind dining experience featuring unique cuisine, stunning views and a cultural exploration. |
Atop the mountain range that divides Negros Island is the summer capital of the province of Negros Occidental, the municipality of Don Salvador Benedicto. DSB is one of the most popular tourist spots in the province. Nothing beats its cold breeze, breathtaking panoramic landscapes, and proximity to diversified flora and fauna. Over the years, it has attracted many businesses and, with careful planning respectful of the environment, it is now punctuated with resorts and restaurants that offer a relaxing and scenic escape not too far from the city. One of these idyllic stops is Kusinata.
Sitting on a cliff with a direct view of waterfalls nestled in lush forest, Kusinata is a restaurant that offers a one-of-a-kind dining experience featuring unique cuisine, stunning views, and cultural exploration. It sets itself apart with its original take on food. The dishes melds modern and traditional elements, with several ingredients just foraged in the vicinity.
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| Sitting on a cliff with a direct view of waterfalls amidst the lush forests. |
Its iconic Paco-Paco Salad, for example, is made from its namesake – wild ferns that thrive in the rainforest. Because it is naturally grown and harvested just around the corner, it owns zero to minimal carbon footprint. This dish piques the interest of adventurous foodies, especially since those who come here appreciate the value of nature’s produce.
Kusinata’s plant-based version of the Filipino favorite Pancit Palabok also stands on its own. This noodle dish replaces meaty ingredients with squash.
Another healthy option is Laswa Lasagna – a fusion of the popular cheesy layered pasta and our beloved Negrense vegetable soup that is popular in every household.
They also serve the classic Budbud, or sweetened glutinous rice with a hot rich tablea or cacao drink. This best seller pairs perfectly with the cool DSB weather.
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| Kusinata sets itself apart with its original take on food. The dishes are a fusion of modern and traditional elements, with several ingredients just foraged around the vicinity. |
For dessert, the Bread and Butter Pudding with Dulce de Batuan is the star of the show. They created a sauce made from batuan, the local souring agent used in many heritage dishes in Negros. This delightful twist proves there is great potential for this local kitchen staple. The unexpected combination of sweet and sour comes together to create a mouthful of flavors.
Food isn’t the only thing special about Kusinata. Beyond the culinary affair is a heartfelt advocacy that became its core and driving force.
The Ata tribe residing in DSB is an indigenous community with a deep-rooted history. They are recognized as the first inhabitants of Negros Island, long before the Spanish colonial rule. The name “Negros” itself is derived from the earliest dark-skinned natives belonging to the Negrito ethnic group that the Spaniards first saw in the island. Today, the Atas struggle to preserve their collective cultural identity in the face of modern development. At a more personal level, however, they have inner battles just like the rest of us.
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| As Kusinata grows, so does its impact on the Ata community. Through them, the Atas of DSB have found a platform to improve their lives, preserve their heritage, and promote local resources. |
Kusinata Chef Jay Grey first crossed paths with the Atas when he was a Psychology student at the University of St. La Salle in Bacolod City. For his thesis paper, he chose to study and immerse with the Ata tribe and found that they have significantly low self-esteem due to generations of bullying and discrimination from society. His thesis journey caught the attention of his parents, Gerry and Lucille. Because of their interest, they eventually began getting involved in Jay’s visits with the Atas. The whole family started setting up gift-giving and outreach activities. After university, Jay pursued culinary training and undertook an internship at a prestigious restaurant in Tagaytay City. That would prove to be the crossroads in his career path.
Meanwhile, back home in Negros, Lucille was collaborating with many professionals to train the Atas in different livelihood skills. When Chef Jay returned home, they put up Kusinata with the intention to provide a more sustainable way to help the Atas. Offering them a steady source of income and a venue to foster their socialization skills proved to be the most impactful show of support. Chef Jay, his family, and the Atas have never looked back.
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| (Left) Mary Lucille Grey (Right) Chef Jay Grey |
Lucille shares that one of their more recent passion projects involved coffee cultivation in DSB. The mountains used to be rich in coffee, but they have been replaced through the years with pineapple. She envisions having native coffee that is truly locally sourced. Spearheading this project will not only promote Negrense products and tourism but also bring livelihood to the Atas.
As Kusinata grows, so does its impact on the Ata community. The restaurant has become a beacon of hope, reminding everyone that with empowerment and support, cultural heritage can thrive shoulder to shoulder with modernity. Through Kusinata, the Atas have found a platform to improve their lives and preserve their heritage. By visiting Kusinata, everyone contributes to that preservation.
Article and video script by: Leezo Dionzon
Photos and video by: Unit A Creatives
