Malatapay Market

Our happy NSC crew on our field trip to Malatapay Market.

Malatapay Market is a local village market located in Maluay Zamboangita - on the oriental or eastern side of Negros Island. The market is usually held on Wednesdays, although on special occasions or holidays and other celebrations they are open for more consecutive days. 

It is a place where livestock ranchers, local farmers, fisherfolk and enterprising businesses are up for sale - fresh produce, tools of many trades, household wares, basic supplies, and interesting local finds.

Folks from the neighboring towns, visitors and locals alike, come to experience and enjoy this tabo – or meet up on market day. It is an opportunity to catch up on the latest while browsing through displays and arrays of merchandise - plastic wares, pots, pans, garments, bags, slippers, toys, snacks, etc.

The rest of the week the place is quiet and deserted. Malatapay is also a flea market for local folk who still barter and trade goods among themselves. Vendors from the nearby islands and those who live in towns close by are supplied and sustained by this weekly tabo. 

The market hogs the road on both sides – all the way to the shoreline at its end.

Inhabitants claim the name Malatapay comes from the tapay palm - Borassus flabellifer, once abundant and native to the area. There are still a few lone sentinels to spot high above the tree lines. Many were removed to make way for coconut farms and plowed fields. 

Most of the trees here were cleared to accommodate the market and road leading to the dock at its end. This is where local boats now ferry foreign tourists and local visitors to Apo Island, a popular dive spot and marine preserve. 

The tapay is a fan palm native to South and Southeast Asia - also known as palmyra, tala, toddy or wine palm. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Borassus_flabellifer_fruit_on_the_tree.JPG]

When it gets too hot to shop or browse visitors can harbor under the shade of the open air row of restaurants by the seaside. Regular feasts offered are lechon baboy or roast pig - available by the kilo in their own stall but also offered at nearby tables. 

It usually is paired with puso - rice steamed in tightly woven coconut leaves and lots of fresh seafood and vegetables to choose from. Cold beer and soft drinks are a welcome delight after all our heated efforts at shopping and bargaining.

(Left) Whole roasted pigs lined up at Bert’s Lechon are chopped up and sold by the kilo
(Right) Cooking is done over open wood burning fires.

Have your fill of crabs, shellfish soup, tinola (sour soup), grilled squid or prawns, and seaweed salad. Or fresh plump fruits - luscious juicy assorted local mangoes, crunchy dainty Ormoc pineapples, and hydrating rich coconut meat swimming in its own water. 

Regulars even bring their own plates, glasses and other utensils in anticipation of the hoard that often crowd the place. An added hygiene precaution as well – post pandemic.

(Left) Malatapay dock – the gateway to Apo Island across Cebu Straight.
(Right) Highway signage to mark the turnoff to Malatapay market & dock.

What further distinguishes Malatapay from other village or barrio markets is their livestock offerings. In a cordoned off area carabaos (water buffalos) mill around with cattle, pigs, and goats. A variety of game cocks, roosters and hens were showcased as well.

 Pigs, cattle, horses, carabaos, and gamecocks – all are for sale at bargain prices.

Animals and their wranglers, along with buyers and the merely curious – all bake under a tropical sun in the haze of stirred up dust being trampled under foot and hoof. Docile or squealing and squawking the arena stirs and disquiets both the seasoned and uninitiated, whether four or two legged or winged.

Livestock & handlers take shelter under the large animal’s shaded area – prior to weighing and bidding for sale. 

Have we grown too removed from our own food source? Are the animals too alive for our comfort? Some food for thought indeed. 

The Philippines is famous for its tiangges or bazaar shopping - favored places that draw tourists and visitors to buy their bargains. Rows of stalls with displays for sale show off a variety of items at incredibly low prices.

Malatapay Market shines and delivers its goods in a cozy, intimate and localized way that is delightful and enjoyable.

(Left) Niczon Deloria, Market Supervisor & some tambays.
(Right) To encourage more participants, entrance tickets to the livestock market have been waived since its return after the pandemic lockdown.

Article by: Issa Urra (bhaktiCD.org)

Photos by: Paolo Correa